Winnipeg’s Best Imperial Cookie: Part 1
As someone who loves the experience of “going for coffee” (but couldn’t care less about the quality of the coffee itself), I like checking out local coffee shops in different cities I visit. And what I find really interesting are the treats that make it into the snack section – I remember being amazed at seeing doughnuts in a dessert case at Starbucks in Seattle. I read somewhere that Nanaimo bars, a true Canadian classic, became popular in the US because Starbucks started carrying them!
My feeble and hobo-style attempt at making Imperial cookies at home.
Anyway, when I moved to Winnipeg, I noticed the coffee shops carry all the usual suspects: cookies, muffins, bars, etc. But a delightful-looking cookie kept catching my eye. A sandwich cookie with a white glaze and a little red dot in the middle. I quickly learned they’re called “Imperial cookies”. Winnipegers must love them, because they’re EVERYWHERE: at chain shops like Second Cup & Timothy’s, as well as at smaller independent shops like Finales. And, unlike honey dill sauce, this is one Winnipeg favourite I can seriously get on board with, because man, they’re DELICIOUS!
I thought it was quite telling that in a Free Press article, Matthew Rankin describes a scene at the McNally Robinson Jackson in New York: “The Tea Room isn’t quaking with River Heights sycophants, queue-cutting for the last Imperial cookie. Rather, it is filled with calm, young New Yorkers, gazing industriously into their laptops.” Need further proof? Local radio celeb Ace Burpee wrote a salute to the Imperial cookie on his blog. And it seems there’re certain standards that these little beauties have to live up to: of the Imperial cookies at the Fyxx on Broadway, one blogger wrote, “Nope. I’m not sure what it was but that was not raspberry jam in there.” So there you have it. Of all the dainties* this city’s fine residents love, Imperial cookies must be among their favourites.
Where did this little piece of heaven come from? So far as I can tell, the Imperial cookie originates from the “Empire Biscuit”. If you believe the information cited on Wikipedia:
“Empire biscuits have a layer of jam in between two biscuits, the top is covered with white water icing, usually decorated with a glace cherry in the centre. They are derived from the Austrian Linzer Torte.[1] The biscuit is smaller than the Linzer Torte, with the same top and bottom. The biscuit was originally known as the “Linzer Biscuit”, and later the “German Biscuit”. With the outbreak of World War I it was renamed to Empire biscuit, and is also known as the “Belgian biscuit”.”
Other sources say Empire biscuits are a traditional Scottish recipe –either way, it’s funny how a city so influenced by Ukrainian and Icelandic culture wound up with it! At any rate, when it comes to Imperial cookies there are many things to discuss. First, the shape. Mostly, I’ve seen round ones with a fluted edge. But I’ve also had heart-shaped ones (I know it can’t be true, but the heart-shaped ones seem to taste better). The icing: it can be pink or white. The little red dot: I think it’s traditionally a bit of maraschino cherry, but I’ve also had a mini cinnamon heart. (Though upon consideration, the heart shape, pink icing, and cinnamon heart may just have been Valentine’s Day variations.) Just as interestingly are all the synonyms. They can be called imperial, diplomat, empire, empress, and Belgian cookies.
We three Winnipeg newbs have decided to embark on a selfless and delicious quest: to find Winnipeg’s best imperial cookie!
Do you have any other suggestions? What makes a good Imperial cookie? Where do you get your favourite? Let us know and we’ll add your criteria and suggestions to our checklists.
*What on earth are dainties? Let me tell you, because I think it’s charming. The Manitoba Book of Everything describes dainties as “Small dessert squares, slices and sweets usually prepared for community events, bridal showers or church gatherings.” It’s a term for a group of what the rest of Canada calls squares, bars, tarts, goodies, etc., individually. I’m told that what makes a dessert a dainty is its inclusion in an assortment of small pieces of dessert. And yes, there were dainties a-plenty at last week’s decidedly upscale social!
I make my own Imperial cookies, although it’s been a while since I’ve baked. I’ll have to make some for you!
Ooooh! That would be awesome!! You know I’ll never forget you suggested it
Ooooh x 2! Get those utensils flying Karen, and perhaps your imperial cookie will top the charts. Ems – thank you for the history lesson. We can see why after being called a “German Biscuit” the allied nations would naturally rename it an “Empire Cookie”. Does this mean the Imperial Cookie has been culturally appropriated?
I’d have to agree with the article… the Fyxx (I prefer Albert St, feels more authentically “Winnipeg” – whatever that means) has the best imperial cookies I have ever had. Starbucks used to have them, and all of their stuff is made locally, but I never got to find out where they were from.
I’ve never had one from High Tea Bakery (down Portage ave) but everything from there is utterly mind-blowing, so I would expect a damn good Imperial out of there as well.
Good luck!!
Thanks, D! We’ll definitely check out the Albert St. Fyxx. I didn’t think Imperial cookies could get any more mind-blowing, and High Tea’s yellow pages ad says they have the best one in the city, so we’re definitely gonna check that one out!
DeLuca’s ‘used’ to have the best imperial cookies in town. Huge, buttery and oh-so-tasty. Sadly, they seem to have stopped making them.
So I’ll second the recommendation for the Fyxx.
I lived near High Tea Bakery…all the cookies are good. When they first opened they used to throw in a free cookie, when I bought an assortment. Think they stopped that…Also dainties is very Manitoban. I was knocked off my rocker, when I first heard it.
Hi Emma! I LOVE imperial cookies, I’m racking my brain about where I used to get my favorites, when I think of it I’ll let you know. I also didn’t realize that non-Manitobans don’t call “dainties” dainties – I’m learning so much about my home province from you guys, I love it!
Someone please do a comparison and report back!
I didn’t thik these cookies were a Winnipeg thing.. maybe so.
High Tea Bakery. Second to none. That or the bubba who lived down the street from me when I was growing up…
My wife LOVES the Imperial cookies from Harvest Bakery on St. Annes Road.
The Belgian Bakery on Corydon used to do the best Imperial cookies, but sadly it closed down. However, it was replaced by the Falafel Place, so it could have been much worse. Mmm, yam chips…
The best Imperial Cookies are from the bakery at Victoria Beach.
I’ve just discovered your blog and I’m laughing myself silly. I moved here in 99 from Ontario and hadn’t seen an Imperial cookie there, either. We got some from the Hartford Bakery on north Main Street. My 4-yr old was trying to pick the cookie with the most icing.
I never heard the term “dainty” in casual conversation before I moved here, either.
I think it’s funny that you ask this because a few years ago I embarked on my own quest to find the best imperial cookie. The ones at Starbucks were too sweet, the ones at the Fyxx were too dry. The Manitoba Legislature cafeteria had great ones, but I can’t remember if I ever found out who made them.
I love them. I grew up with the ones from the Belgian Bakery on Corydon Avenue and was always partial to their version so I was sad when they closed.
I never really realized they were a Manitoba thing but it’s true I haven’t seen so much as a glimmer of one since moving away from my hometown last year.
I was also told once that the best ones came from Central Bakery in Gimli. They were okay but it is worth the drive to Gimli just to go to Gimli. It’s one of my favourite places in the entire province.
Mia, great minds think alike!
Sorry to hear there aren’t many Imperial cookies in your life these days – that’s a shame!
I’m thrilled to hear that Gimli has awesome ones, because I love that little town, too. Here I come!
The best imperial cookies can be found at Prairie Ink Restaurant in McNally Robinson Bookstore (Grant location). They are always baked fresh.. come in interesting shapes (hearts for Valentine’s Day.. ghosts for Halloween).. melt in your mouth and are reasonably priced for their size. The Belgian Pastry Shop on Corydon used to have excellent.. yet standard.. cookies.. but they have closed up shop in the last year.
Cottage Bakery – over by Vic’s Fruit off Pembina has some really delish Imperial Cookies.
I’m an Imperial cookie addict. High Tea bakery’s cookie is pretty damned good, but I am oddly partial to McNalley’s as well. I also had a really good one in the Forks but I can’ remember from which shop . . . .
Gunn’s Bakery on Selkirk Avenue has the best!
Lots of other places in the city resale Gunn’s cookies.
I’ve been longing for a good imperial cookie for sometime now. I was just in Scotland on holiday, and while I’d always assumed that was the ancestral home of the biscuit-also-known-as-Empire, sadly I did not see any and the locals looked at me funny when I asked for them. I grew up in Winnipeg, enjoying imperial cookies from Safeway (the one on Fermor and St. Annes) and also from the Dakota Bakery (Dakota and St. Mary’s Road). In recent years, I liked the ones from the Belgian Bake Shop, and am sad to hear that they have closed.
Strangely, that Safeway used to excel in the Bakery department – their imperial cookies, bran muffins and a rare treat known as New York Slice (kinda like Nanaimo Bars, but not the same) were second to none.
Enjoy your quest for the best dainties Winnipeg has to offer.
We were in the city today and decided to try a few places that were listed. We weren’t able to make it to all the places but of the places we did go to we found that Prairie Ink Restaurant had the best ones.
I would love to have the recipe. I am a huge fan of these cookies and remember getting one on my way to school once a week. If anyone has the recipe, please share.
Thanks
Dre – the recipe I’ve used a few times is available here:
http://www.whatsonwinnipeg.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=25173
The testing notes are bang-on – you definitely have to let them sit overnight to soften up, and use a bit more almond extract than the recipe calls for.
Happy baking!
I was looking for a recipe. While I am in Toronto, my vote goes for the best ever Imperial Cookies at the Gimli Bakery. My grandmother often took me there when I was young. I am almost 50 and they are still my favorite no matter where I have travelled.
The best ever Imperial Cookies that were carried by DeLuca’s, Second Cups on Corydon, Osborne, the Fyxx on Albert and several other places were actually all made by Java Jungle when it existed in the McIvor Mall on Henderson. I know ’cause I delivered them to all those places…mmmm good.
gunns bakery on selkirk ave has the best imperials i’ve ever tasted. I know the park theatre sells them.
I too grew up in winnipeg eating the cookies and cinnimon buns from the belgian bakery. Now living in Ottawa found I can get the cookies from the scottish store in Lindsay ontario, exactly the same ones. I was dismayed to find the bakery in winnipeg though.
[...] Part 2 of the search for Winnipeg’s Best Imperial Cookie with Laurel when she visits in February during Festival du [...]